Fonio, an ancient grain from West Africa, is surprisingly transforming the American craft beer landscape, offering a unique flavor profile and significant sustainability benefits that are captivating brewers nationwide.
The grain’s journey into American brewing began notably in 2019, spearheaded by Brooklyn Brewery’s brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Inspired by Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam, a passionate fonio advocate, Oliver pioneered “Teranga,” a beer featuring 50 percent fonio, which debuted at the Great American Beer Festival. This introduction marked a pivotal moment, igniting curiosity and setting the stage for fonio’s integration into commercial brewing.
By 2025, fonio-infused beers gained considerable traction across the United States. A significant milestone was achieved by Kiltos Brewing in Utah, which successfully launched the nation’s first 100 percent fonio beer, experiencing an immediate sell-out and demonstrating robust consumer demand for this innovative and sustainable option. On the West Coast, Russian River Brewing Company also embraced the trend, incorporating fonio into their Belgian golden ale, further solidifying the grain’s role in the evolution of craft brewing.
Beyond its novelty, fonio stands out for its remarkable environmental resilience. This naturally gluten-free and nutrient-rich grain has been cultivated in West Africa for millennia, thriving in arid conditions without requiring irrigation, pesticides, or fertilizers. Its rapid maturation cycle of six to eight weeks makes it an exceptionally efficient and eco-friendly choice for brewers committed to reducing their ecological footprint.
The benefits of fonio extend beyond environmental considerations to encompass social sustainability. Sourcing this ancient grain directly supports small-scale farmers in West Africa, creating vital economic opportunities and contributing to local community development. This dual advantage of environmental stewardship and social responsibility enhances fonio’s appeal as a conscious ingredient in the brewing industry.
From a sensory perspective, fonio introduces distinctive characteristics to beer. Brewers describe its flavor as a sweet, biscuity base complemented by subtle tropical fruit notes. It imparts a smooth texture and adds layers of complexity, enriching the overall drinking experience. Moreover, its inherent gluten-free nature enables breweries to cater to a broader audience, including those with gluten sensitivities, without compromising on taste or quality.
In the Northeast, Brooklyn Brewery continues to lead in fonio innovation, but other regional breweries are also exploring its potential. Vulgar Brewing Company in Franklin offers “Hooked on Fonio,” a 4.6% American light lager that is low in bitterness, light-bodied, slightly nutty, and finishes dry—making it an ideal summer brew.
Further north in Burlington, Vermont, Foam Brewers has crafted “Past and Pending,” a 4% lager brewed with both pilsner malt and fonio. This beer is celebrated for its crisp and light profile, featuring a subtle earthiness and gentle fruit notes, effectively demonstrating fonio’s versatility in enhancing delicate flavor profiles within the craft beer spectrum.
As the craft brewing industry continually seeks innovative ingredients and embraces sustainable practices, fonio emerges as a compelling and promising option. Its unique attributes, combined with a growing focus on creative and responsible brewing, suggest that this ancient West African grain is poised to become a significant fixture in modern American beer production.
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