Palmyra, a city etched into history, is slowly witnessing the return of its resilient inhabitants, marking a poignant chapter after more than a decade of brutal conflict and widespread displacement. This return, however, is not to the Palmyra they once knew but to a land scarred yet imbued with an unwavering spirit of resilience.
The ancient city’s ordeal began tragically with the Islamic State’s brutal seizure, which unleashed a reign of terror marked by mass executions and the systematic destruction of irreplaceable cultural heritage. The deliberate razing of ancient monuments under a false religious pretext served as a cover for heinous crimes against those perceived as opposition to the regime, sparing no one.
This period of extreme violence forced countless families, like Ali’s, into desperate escape attempts, contributing significantly to one of the century’s most profound refugee crises. Millions of Syrians fled their homes, becoming internally displaced or seeking refuge abroad, their lives irrevocably altered by the unfolding civil war.
Upon Ali’s return in 2020, years after the Islamic State’s expulsion, Palmyra’s vibrant pre-war population of 100,000 had dwindled to a mere 1,500 civilians. The city echoed with stories of widespread humiliation, rampant theft of property, and a severe scarcity of resources, creating almost impossible living conditions for the few who remained.
A pivotal shift arrived with the abrupt toppling of Bashar al-Assad’s regime in December 2024, signaling an end to 54 years of dictatorship and sparking a political realignment across the Middle East. This momentous event offered many Syrians, including returning Palmyrans, the long-awaited opportunity for post-conflict recovery and to finally go home, despite the perilous challenges like widespread landmines.
Beyond the human toll, Palmyra’s invaluable archaeological sites, including the iconic Temple of Bel and the Great Colonnade, suffered immense damage, both from deliberate destruction by the Islamic State and collateral damage from bombardments. Heritage experts like Mohammed Fares are now diligently working on surveying these 2,000-year-old ruins for future reconstruction efforts.
The city’s economic backbone, largely reliant on tourism, was shattered, transforming a once bustling destination that drew thousands of daily visitors into a quiet, almost desolate landscape. While architectural rebuilding of modern structures is quicker, the lack of state and NGO support means Palmyra’s residents are taking on the daunting task of reconstruction themselves.
The personal commitment to rebuilding is exemplified by individuals like Khaled Saleh, who, after a decade in Turkey, returned with his children, steadfast in his resolve to restore his home. His unwavering spirit underscores the profound sentiment shared by many that, despite the hardship, returning to their homeland is paramount for Syria’s future.
Ultimately, the complete restoration of Palmyra, both modern and ancient, hinges on the full return of its people, who possess the vital local workforce and expertise. The city’s resilience is intrinsically linked to its inhabitants, demonstrating that without its people, a city’s stones remain merely stones, emphasizing the collective responsibility for its revival and continued post-conflict recovery.
